This page is dedicated to logging first ascents at Moore's Wall following the release of the new guidebook. Please post FA's as comments and I'll add them to the list or email me photos and write up and I'll post as a side page. gregoryloomis@hotmail.com
6b
Scaretactics: Valley/Governing Dynamics Boulder: Climb the high rail and then exit directly above using large jugs to pull the roof, ascend the face and roll over right where the large crack exits the face.
6c+
Rabid Beaver: North End/ Lardo Boulder: start underclings to enter obvious steep crack which leads to a difficult lip encounter.
Hard Mudder: Trailside Area/Tsunami Boulder: Before you round the corner to Tsunami you see a cave on your left. Start on the big obvious flake and move left to gain the slopey lip. Finish directly up the obvious dihedral filled with ferns. FA Rodney Biddle
7a
TBD
7a+
Ode to Eric: Trailside Area/Tsunami Boulder: Before you round the corner to Tsunami you see a cave on your left. Start on the big obvious flake and move left to gain the lip. Traverse the lip up and right to finish at its apex.
7b
White Monster: North End/ Lardo Boulder: Start the same as Lardo but move left to match pinch and move left to crimp and direct topout.
Biddle Baddle: Valley/XXX Boulder: Start right of Iron Chuff on low slopey crimps. Traverse left on holds just below lip to meet and finish on Iron Chuff
7b+
Apollo 7: North End/The Recommendation gulley: Hike to the route "The Recommendation" where in the gully above the base there is an obvious boulder. Start in the back of the roof adn move out crimps and pinches to a full value finish move. Enjoy
Scaretactics Sit: Valley/Governing Dynamics Boulder: Start on large flat undercling and make big move to gain the high rail and finish up scaretactics.
Governing Dynamics Sit: Valley/Governing Dynamics Boulder: Start on same undercling at Scaretactics and make a big cross L hand to an incut crimper. Move into Governing Dynamics. Enjoy
2 weekends ago did the line between the "twister project" and "white monster". calling it "earning your brunch" V9. It starts sitting on the flat undercling feature (as far right on it as you can get, because obviously sitting on it to the left would be the start of "twister project") and go up right hand in to that weird quartzitey break thing, get matched up, do some heel trickery and then bust to jug loaf at head height mid-climb, then go straight up.
ReplyDeleteLast Thursday linked "earning your brunch" into "white monster". Calling it "piss boner" also V9. It starts the same as "earning your brunch" but when you get to the jug loaf at head height you go right 2-3 moves into "white monster" and do the last few moves of "white monster".
also Thursday repeated something that Taylor thinks he mighta done the FA of in the summer. Mcneil did a sit to "Iron Chuff" that adds one move into the start. start sitting with left hand on a diagonal flat edge / and a right hand on a weird nipple crystal pinch thing down and right from it about 7 inches, key right heel/toe hook beta out right and do one hard move into the right start hand of "iron chuff". Taylor said he just called it "iron chuff low" and thought it was V8. I think V8 sounds close enough.
Did the twister project on friday, Nate just did it today too. I called it Bill Paxton and I think V10
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